Preceding the Session

Another long overdue piece with the odd addition to come no doubt. Took me weeks of thinking about it before I finally sat down at the computer, not to mention numerous attempts over the past four years. It's been a few paragraphs a day, for weeks, while I jogged my memory and searched through notes. Usually by this point I wouldn't have bothered, but feel it was a very productive period, one I never fully documented, and rather crucial to what followed in 2017.

Mossdale Sessions 1 & 2 are still to complete, and should follow soon.    

2016

If I had to summarise this one in a few words it'd be, 'what a year!'

Was one of the most productive years I'd had up to that point caving on the flanks of Great Whernside. The majority of it done with Ian Cummins. It was probably the most attention those caves had received for decades as well.

Eight visits were made to Mossdale Caverns, five to Langcliffe Pot and four to Swarthgill Hole. Activity was also on going at Howgill Nick. The Mossdale visits were pretty well documented, via the blog and elsewhere, but the rest were not, especially the main Langcliffe trip which I really regret now. A few of the Swarthgill Hole trips were written up by Ian, and photographed/videoed by myself over the course of the visits. 

Swarthgill Hole

Neither of us had read any trip reports from Swarthgill, nor heard of any recent visits. We deduced we were the first beyond the duck to the final chambers in god knows how long. Attempting to capture decent pictures was a real challenge as was filming the duck with a very cold neck on both occasions.

We dug the final chamber of Swarthgill in various places on two of the visits but quickly realised it would not fall to such simple tactics. The furthest limit of the final choke, which required a short but devious bit of route finding to access, was where we needed to be. Requiring poles and clips at the very least, to secure that area of the choke before you dare bang and bray. Enlarging a route following the North Wall of the final chamber down between the boulders also looked like a possibility. 

I'll never forget the draught in Swarthgill Hole! Intimidating! New Fearnought written all over it. 

It's the first time I've really thought deeply about that period, the memories flooding back today profound.We had some fun and laughs Ian & I. 

I recall a frustration creeping in towards caving around this time. I guess it was long overdue. The direction which came at Mossdale the following year.

Had I not found a definite target at Mossdale soon thereafter, Swarthgill Hole may well have featured instead.  

Spot Ian's Wellies

Langcliffe Pot

The Langcliffe Pot trips, organised primarily by Brian Judd, and using the Oddmire entrance on all visits, were mainly centred around prepping and climbing an objective in the far reaches (New Fearnought Streamway). The objective was an aven/cross rift just upstream of the Dementor Sump, which Brian had spotted back in the 90s.

After a few trips in late spring during high water, one of which stayed in the vicinity of Oddmire Pot, and the other a false start of sorts involving some mutinous behaviour from me, with the equipment finding it's way to Boireau Falls Chamber courtesy of Brian J and Alex R. 

A few weeks later Ian Cummins and myself then ferried the gear through Nemesis to the big ledges of Sacred Way just beyond. Nemesis had required some digging open at one of the most desperate places. A guide line was also laid to aid navigation through the main section of the choke. We were both fairly convinced that the last people beyond Nemesis had been the two of us back in Sept 2010. I will continue to believe this till someone tells me otherwise.

We passed the Agora that day and almost made it to New Fearnought (literally minutes away) but Ian suggested we call it a day. I was desperate to see Dementor Sump but didn't argue. Was a tiring trip. One of the best things to come from this one were the photographs which I'd begun taking just beyond Boireau Falls until our lights unfortunately dimmed. Having ditched the bag at The Agora I forgot to change the batteries on my main light. I recall warning someone else about this later down the line. The ground beyond Nemesis is far more time consuming than it appears on the survey.  

We returned a week later, which was way too soon! Felt like forced fun at the time. I then did a similar thing and instigated a turn around in the bowels of the Nemesis Choke. It was to be the last time we were down Langcliffe Pot together. 

Nemesis Pitch

Cached gear just down slope from exit point of Nemesis Choke

Nemesis Choke from D/S

Early September I received a phone call from Brian inviting me on the next scheduled attempt on the Aven. Something I was surprised about at the time. It couldn't have come at a better time either. My motivation had varied throughout the year, though in this instance with the darker months fast approaching, the forecast outing felt like an absolute necessity.

Aside from a few scribbles and anecdotes scattered amongst notebooks I didn't write anything worthy of a journal entry afterwards, and all that survives are vague mental snippets.

We began as a group of four in Kettlewell mid-morning, and stayed that way right up until the Aven had been climbed late in the evening. I do remember one of those in the party giving their partner a rough guesstimate of when they'd be out, or when to expect them - last orders was possibly mentioned - I recall thinking, or saying; you stand no chance unless you turn round early.

Aside from myself and Brian the team consisted Becka Lawson and Alex Ritchie. Good speedy progress was made in spite of us all having a bit to carry. I had a daren drum chock full of food and other treats like tobacco and painkillers, the majority of which I barely touched, well the food that is. The only thing missing was the hammer Brian had purchased beforehand. 

I remember the conversation at the foot of the Nemesis Pitch regarding SRT kit, and which two, especially who was going to climb the Aven, pointless taking four sets of gear etc.... I'm not sure whether enthusiasm was waning or what but my hand was first in the air, and that was after a decent pause, during which I'd spotted something out the corner of my eye, a freshwater shrimp in a pool...

The work done previously in Nemesis definitely saved a lot of time that day. My only criticism was the guideline which would've been better belayed at points, instead of running loose throughout.

There's a feeling you've arrived at your destination post Nemesis, amazingness awaits...... By the time you arrive at Dementor Sump you feel totally overwhelmed with the place. I always thought the 2nd time round it wouldn't feel as long in the far reaches, yet it's continued to every time.

During the former trip with Ian I'd filmed a segment of the Sacred Way Camps and uploaded it to Youtube. In the footage you can clearly see an abandoned bolt hammer. I didn't notice this till much later but heading for the Aven that day, hammerless, we must have walked right past it. 

It was Alex and Becka's first time to the bottom so they headed for the final choke while Brian and myself sorted the gear and began climbing the Aven. Which hadn't turned out to be the Aven I thought it was. 

Brian's was a fairly well hidden affair, just upstream of the sump. You'd have to be looking up at exactly the right time to even notice. With the obvious tunnel leading off at the top and it's proximity to Dementor I was instantly psyched with the possibilities. 

The hammer situation was partially solved thanks to Alex and a multitool he'd brought, still there was little weight behind the device so placing the climbing aids took time. Dementor Aven was free climbable to begin with, starting upstream, then carefully traversing ledges round a corner to a funnel shaped muddy ledge part way up. The main difficulties were a blank section of wall with an offwidth crack to the right. This was slippy and for the most part unuseable if I recall. I forget why Ian wasn't able to make this trip, he would have made a far easier job of the climbing than I did, no doubt freeing most of it. 

In all the feature climbed was about ten metres from the streamway below, and as I neared the top the big question was answered, yes the passage continued.

After securing the rope Brian began heading up while I went for a quick look. A stooping/hands knees phreatic tunnel lead off for a short distance to a low digable looking section, with a bend beyond. Brian then took over whilst I headed down for a smoke. It was suggested to the other two, who'd been waiting sometime and now visibly chilled, that they head out if they so wish. 'Oh, and don't forget to take the drill!'

Base

The author placing anchors part way up the Aven

I've a vague memory of sitting in the streamway alone, smoking, and for the first time that day pausing for breath. Alex and Becka were packing to leave in the distance and gone by the time I was heading back up the Aven. 

Beyond the Aven the roof tunnel continued for forty metres past a series of acute bends to where the ceiling suddenly met a floor of mud and cobbles(?). We then surveyed back to Dementor Sump. 

We discovered while packing to leave they'd only left us one tackle bag, a huge source of amusement at the time. Using electrical tape, snoopies and a few slings I made a carrying strap for my Daren Drum, which also acted as a banderlier, clipping as much stuff as I could to it. The lone bag was then thoroughly stuffed. I felt certain the other two would realise. I mean, what else is there to think about during the long slog out, aside from what you're bloody carrying. Sure enough they had, a welcome tackle bag awaited us just beyond The Agora.

When we made our return of Nemesis, twelve hours had elapsed since we last passed that way. This didn't feel right in the slightest, but it had. Over the years others have spent far longer, though not all through choice.

Time was spent under Boireau Falls Chamber, as Brian exhausted every possibility attempting to return that pig of an upward squeeze. I was impressed with his hardiness that day. He may not have had a choice in the matter but he wore the whole thing with a smile on his face. No surprise he'd attained legendary status cave diving. Far skinnier, I also struggled to pass the obstacle straight away, taking a while to find the correct variation. 

Around this period, I was discovering my body was becoming less tolerant to extremely long periods in Neoprene. A good few years had passed since I'd done anything even close to this duration. Those final hours were unbearable and swore I'd find an alternative if ever I came that way again.

We were met at 5am by the gloomy half light and heavy dew after an 18 hour trip. I can still picture the scene now. 

I tried to sleep once home but gave up almost immediately and drove to the nearest open petrol station for smokes. That evening we met with Dave & Alan Brook and Chris Camm for a sunday roast in Kettlewell. After the restlessness I'd felt earlier in the day, the pub meeting was a welcome unwind. Brian was camping which had exacerbated an old injury after the trip, exiling him to another night healing before facing the long drive home. 

The fact I made no effort to write this trip up says a lot, and if I wasn't knowingly depleted after the Langcliffe trip I would be a fortnight later. 

Mossdale again and again

October was one of those months for Ian and myself. He'd usually have the family holiday in the sun booked, and yet, we'd always end up doing something desperate the day before he went. 

I don't recall the specifics but know the weather was obviously too good to ignore. With that came opportunity. One final Mossdale of the year. October was tainted with it.

The previous year I'd given Ian just a few hours to think about it - a last minute trip to the far reaches just before the weather broke - in this instance he had about a week. 

I wrote a brief blog post on this visit to the High Level Mud Caverns but it far from portrayed the experience and a lot was left out. Had I not taken the photos, one of which I thought was very good, I probably wouldn't have bothered. It was rare to want to forget an experience. 

You could slice the atmosphere from word go that day. Some days are just like that at Mossdale. The Mud Caverns offered laughably little hospitality, and clad in just 5mm of Neoprene, we were both wishing we'd worn more. Our call-out also mean't we were pretty limited, with what I thought was a meager margin for error. In the end we had to contend with the existing limit of the HLMC Southern reach. We took uttermost care with the mud during our return, never quite moving enough to warm back up. Physically I'd struggled that day as it was. Marathon was slow going with a still tender body. Ian flew.

During the exit I quickly inspected a feature (noticed earlier in the year) just downstream of Far Marathon's end. This was a streamway/channel cutting across the main passage at a slightly lower level. Stuck in the rift above this channel was an ammo tin, which I presumed was from 67. I'd this notion the channel continued straight and defied the turn towards Far Stream Cave, possibly even connecting at a lower level with the Mud Cavern fault/joint etc... I was also aware it could just be drainage circumventing the heavily cobbled collapsed region of the Mud Caverns Aven. I vowed to dig this next time I was there (this was partially accomplished Mossdale Session 1, the feature was named Lucky Dip). I've added a picture of the feature below (taken May 2016). I think it's the first time I've shared it publicly.  

Almost out and passing Broadway I said to Ian we'd be out in fifteen minutes. Generally we moved at a very similar pace and rarely needed to keep tabs. Due to my familiarity, especially in the entrance series, I would stay close enough to guide the way. I was aware of Ian passing the awkward up/over just behind me as I entered the flat out bedding, which involves a good few metres of noisy slithering, enough to herald my location. I guess by that point I hadn't predicted an issue so continued on to Fossil Chamber without looking back, stopping on the ledge atop the 2m climb. I waited, then I waited some more. It could have been five maybe ten minutes I'm not sure, but then headed back to see what was up. I returned to the nearside end of the flat out bedding thinking 'he must have come past here by now!?'. I then made my way back towards the entrance, searching the notorious offshoots where it's possible to go wrong, Nothing! 

'Did Ian pass me at any point?' I really began to question this shit! So went to the surface to check, nothing! I ran up the hill to get a signal and put a friend on standby then headed back down. Going all the way to where he'd definitely been. It didn't make sense at all, though it never occurred to me he could be anywhere but between there and the entrance. I really believed he'd missed the Fossil Chamber turning and headed into an area that collapsed. 

I questioned a lot of things as I then searched with peeled eyes expecting to find his body at any time. My own sanity was one of them; 'had I imagined Ian?' 'Was I alone the whole time?!' etc...  

I may have gone back to the surface a second time but really can't recall now. I remember feeling quite sad and angry, that something bad had happened to Ian instead of me. I was also cursing myself for possibly jinxing the trip earlier on.  

Eventually I made the decision to go back into the main cave. I couldn't see how that was possible, and didn't expect I'd find anything. Sure enough beyond Assembly Hall we found one another. Ian had taken a wrong turn just before the flatout bedding, leading him along a devious boulder ruckle route, eventually depositing him god knows where. I didn't recognise the description as somewhere I'd been. Not recognising the terrain he'd waited for me knowing I'd eventually find him.  

All I remember of the return hike was little said. Alone with our respective thoughts. I was glad Ian had some holiday sun to come after that.

The feature of interest and Ammo Tin. The channel trends Right to Left.

Unless something changed drastically, that was it. I wouldn't be having another year like this. Flogging myself for the same old......

I then took a job with a drain company in Burnley and did nothing but work for the next few months. The only time I thought about caving were those times I wasn't given a choice. The mechanism responsible for maintaining the hooks all these years..

I was obviously thinking what next? And still pondering my options during those months working. There was the feature at the end of Far Marathon, and the idea to drain/re-examine Syphon Passage. I even considered the Mud Caverns but that seemed unrealistic at the time, with the way I wished to operate, which was mostly by myself with occasional help. Where Mossdale is concerned I felt it was the only way to maintain regularity and exploit every opportunity. That is unless you had very flexible helpers, which is pretty rare especially at this end of the market.

I still needed to thoroughly examine the Ouroborous terminal choke, a site I'd always dismissed due to the efforts made by others in the past. If they'd failed what chance did I stand!? 

I was also obviously very curious as to how I would feel getting underground again. The other reasons I suspect were secondary to this. In the final week before Christmas I contacted Alex Ritchie to see if he fancied joining me for a Mossdale.

Mossdale Session Zero  (17th Dec 2016)

On the planned day Alex's car was in the garage, as was my piece of shit. Fortunately I had a works van which actually felt pretty novel on the day, after all my years caving with cars. 

My journal states only three things.

. Xmas trip with Alex.

. Visited Ouroborous and Confusion Cavern.

. First visit since that very strange experience in October.

I remember Alex inspecting the high level section at the Ouroborous choke while I squeezed down to Piston Chamber to inspect the limit. There was some old rope and a load of timber props, that appeared to support a big block. I don't recall details like, was there a draught? but concluded there seemed no way on, just a wall of hideous looking loose blocks. 

Whether it occurred to me then or later, I'm not sure; but on the back of this visit realised if I did what those before hadn't done, I may stand a chance there. This involved bringing a lot of equipment like scaffold and making the working area a safer proposition. I'd been well aware for sometime that to succeed at Mossdale you had to be willing to do what others hadn't. 

I didn't make my decision till some months later, but realised that day I was definitely doing this, with little doubt regarding the location.... Ouroborous.

Alex took some pictures during the return of Easy Passage and later in Confusion Cavern. I think this was the day I realised the mistake in Cave and Karst Volume 1, having first flicked through it around this time. The picture credited as the High Level Mud Caverns is actually Confusion Cavern. 

Maybe Alex will jog my memory, cos I remember nothing further.

I walked away from this trip feeling more positive, no doubt thanks to the forced break those past months. At that point it could have gone either way regarding activity the coming year. It would be circumstance that played the biggest role.

To be continued in Mossdale Sessions 1 & 2..... 

Useful Links

Swarthgill Hole duck Youtube Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rd-FcbWS2Ok

Swarthgill Hole Photos - http://simonbeck.blogspot.com/2016/12/swarthgill-hole-photos-and-report.html

Langcliffe Pot article and photos - http://simonbeck.blogspot.com/2016/07/langcliffe-pot-via-oddmire.html

Langcliffe Nemesis Choke Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZGqkBhLZHA

Langcliffe Pot Sacred Way Camps - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVbVcDdfi0g

Mossdale Mud Caverns article - http://simonbeck.blogspot.com/2016/10/mossdale-caverns-high-level-mud-caverns.html 

Marathon Obsession article - http://simonbeck.blogspot.com/2016/02/marathon-obsession-1-live-through-this.html

Further reading

Beck, Simon (2016) "Shadowplay". Descent 251 (Aug 2016) . ISSN 0046-0036

Copyright

© Simon Beck, 2021. The copyright for this article and photographs, remains with the author. It should not be reproduced without permission.